Coffin Bay

At the bottom of the Eyre Peninsula, about 50k from Pt Lincoln lies Coffin Bay. It's a sleepy little hollow once again on a bay surrounded by National Parks and full of Oyster leases. We did a couple of National Park walks, saw the beaches and had a seafood lunch at the pub with all locally harvested food. For the cooks among us, try making Oysters natural with diced Cherizo and Basil and a dash of Worchester. Yeah, I know, I'm not a foodie... but it was very nice.

This was taken on the coastal drive, a loop around the cliff tops near Elliston on the way to Coffin Bay.

 Where's Wally.....!

 Along the Oyster Walk at Coffin Bay.

Further along the Oyster Walk.

Venus Bay (Point Labatt)

We had planned to leave today but a local started rattling off these place names and we hadn't seen any of them. They mentioned seals so of course I couldn't get Rose away without seeing them. Sometimes the journey to these places is the destination. In this case we ended up on some dirt roads, drove passed some old towns, in the old SA stonework style. The seal colony was there, just lazing about and we snapped off a couple of good shots..

This youngster decided to put on a bit of a show. For the enthusiasts, we took this picture about 300m away with the new Sony.

The colony numbered about 40. These guys were thinking about making it 41 I think......! 

Venus Bay

What a little gem of a place, on a bay, oysters, seals and fish everywhere. The wind was howling when we were there, but only the odd "zephyr" made it through to our camp. A really good "character" in the place. Everyone smiling, and plenty of time for a chin wag. The usual 10 minute tasks took an hour, unless you looked outside first, and if the coast was clear, did what you needed to do. It wasn't a quick get away when we left although that was what we'd planned. I thought we would have been safe around 5:30am but as luck would have it.... "Hey fletch I was meaning to ask you about that coupling.... yada yada yada....!!!" Well one thing led to another and what can you do... 7am rolls around and Rose is starting to make faces...!

We met some interesting people here. A diver who'd retired after 30 years. A farmer who had left Harvey Bay for a 6 month holiday 12 years ago. He had a 35ft bus, with the closed in trailer, small 4x4 and tinny. There's a lot of people who travel this way.

I tried some fishing. Not much luck with bait, so I pulled out a lure thingy, cast it, and "whack"... I pulled in a nice sized Salmon Trout. I had to ask someone what it was. Next cast, I pulled in another about the same size I knew what the second one was so I didn't feel as ignorant. Both fish were hooked through the back. Seems they were excited about the lure but turned away too late. I caught a third but he dropped off. Very nice fish to eat fresh.

The Venus Bay back beach. Very craggy cliffs.

The jetty at Venus Bay. The site of our Salmon Trout landings.

Everybody likes their picture taken in "the bay"!

Eyre Peninsula - (The Hay Stacks)

We drove through Ceduna a few days ago on our way to Smoky Bay. There's not much to say about Smoky Bay other than it's a good place to drive through. We stayed the night in a very rustic setting, a fisho's paradise. There are several places in the immediate vicinity however that are quite unique. The Hay Stacks is one of them. These large sandstone rocks sit atop a hill just off the main highway. They are unique, and you could liken them to stonehenge perhaps in prominence.

They are in the middle of a farm. The farmer takes his couple of dollars and will let you camp there too.

Some unique colours

Nullarbor

I was last across the Nullarbor in an old HD Holden about 45 years ago. Dad drove us from West to East along the old highway which included about 500k of dirt road. We four kids sat across the back seat with a towel on our laps shuffling a chunk of lock ice from one to the other to try and stay cool. I recall the trip took three days and two hours, but who was counting. I think we relied on windows and fresh air back then.

Today the road from Eucla to Ceduna travels closer to the coast. We took on fuel at Eucla and filled a gerry can wt a additional 20lt. We'd heard the fuel price was around $2/lt at Nullarbor so we avoided it altogether.

There are lookouts over the Great Australian Bite at varous points. There used to be many more but they have been dug up. I suppose the responsible parties had decided with the increasing numbers of travellers now, there was a risk that needed to be better managed.

We drove through Ceduna this morning after overnighting at a a small roadside stop with several others.  The drive over was uneventful with tail winds early each day. The winds were southerly in the late afternoons and became a little boisterous later on. Rose had a drive one afternoon and went a little sideways in one big gust... it got the heart rate up a little for both of us.

 The first lookout on the Nullarbor

The second lookout. We had lunch here... a really nice place on an exceptional day.

Us two... not standing too close mind!

Norseman

We drove up from LE Grand NP today to Norseman. The wind on our nose for the whole trip. Not our best fuel consumption day.....

Norseman, as with many inland WA communities is slowly dying. The infrastructure (predominantly mining and transport) is becoming more independent and portable. Norseman is expensive, although fuel isn't too bad. We stopped and paid the Visitors centre a "backhander" to use the CMCA installed dump point and some water for our tanks. We also filled up a 20lt can with diesel.... just in case.

We're now parked up in a rest area 108k East of Norseman. We had stopped earlier but we've now got a tail wind so we drove for another hour or so. We're miles from anywhere and the Telstra reception is the best we've had... go figure!

The drive across the Nullarbor has begun....

Rose cooked up a fantastic meal this evening... it was definitely worth a specific mention!  

Esperence

A wheat port which is pretty busy at the moment given it's harvest season They run the 53m road trains in to town all day every day. The drivers are pretty good and allow us "wobbly's" a little bit of latitude, as we do with them. I actually passed one today..... it was parked!

We had been given the tip to go out to Le Grand NP or to Cape Arid, so we stocked up and went to Le Grand. We arrived at the beach camp ground an hour later, proceeded to the beach and we're able to look back across the bay to Esperence. We'd come around to the south side of the bay. We're glad we did. Esperence I'm sure is a very nice place, but it's expensive and less than impressive, but it serves it's purpose. The NP's though are great.

The night we arrived, we survived another thunderstorm They predicted strong winds and of course "hail". No matter where we go we seem to encounter hail. The front of the van was hail damaged in Perth, we had another dusting of hail in Denmark, and now it's forecast again, so we pulled the car in under the awning and tied the awning to it. We were braced for everything or so we thought. At 2:30am the wind started to strengthen so there I was moving the car and pulling down the awning. Neither the strong winds nor the hail eventuated but the next day was blustery and occasionally wet.

There is a walk that runs from the campground to "Hellfire Gorge". They said three hours one way, and it was every part of that. We walked over wet sandstone, slipped and slid around for pretty much the whole of the walk and finally decided to avoid any further risk and head for home.

At the start of our walk to Hellfire Gorge. We're looking back towards Esperence, and our campground is just to the right of Rose's head nested amongst the scrub and protected by sand dunes.

Rose is starting to carry more weight in her backpack in training for our Tassie hike.

 Further along the same walk.

Hopetoun

Turn left at Ravensthorpe, and about 50-60k later you would arrive at Hopetoun. It's on the coast and used to be small a "olde worlde" sort of place. Along came BHP who said they wanted to build a mine, then a couple of years later they apologised and said that they really didn't, but to show our gratitude we'll invest in some infrastructure for you. So they did. New houses, shops, a stone wall port, and while we're at it we'll even push a road out into the Fitzgerald National Park (NP).

So you now arrive in Hopetoun and you are confronted with the largest commercial car and caravan cleaning bay I've ever seen, and a brand new $40m, highway that runs 20k into the NP. But wait there's more. The new boat ramp and NP camp ground only costs $10/night.... and it's absolutely awesome! So we used the road, the cleaning facilities and the campground with about 3 other people!

The beaches and the bays are what we've come to expect from the southwest. They are spectacular in every way. The walks are everywhere and always through something new at us every day.

The view next to the campground looking West across Hamersley Inlet.

Looking East from the new lookout in the NP across to Hopetoun.

Bremer Bay

We had a big day with the Bluff Knoll walk, visiting the "Lily", and Ongerup. Rose said don't mention Ongerup as it's claim to fame can be summed up by playing host to 90% of the remaining Australian Malleefowl population, a roadhouse that's off the road managed by a 75yo, and a $m bowls club (must have been a GFC program). We wanted to buy diesel, but they only had a "highflow" pump. I'm sure we were the only customer for the day..

We drove on to Bremer Bay because "Bremer Bay" was shown on our map in BOLD type. We arrived to find the 250 residents getting ready to accommodate the tourist influx which starts in December when the population grows to about 8000-10000.

It's claim to fame besides the peace and solitude is a Museum which really is quite a collection of equipment that has been put together over the past 200 years by the one family (the "Wellstead's"). The rest of the town is really a holiday destination for farmers. A nice place, but a bit quiet at the moment..!

It must have been in the water for a while, but there was no note inside. There is a crab in this picture...

 These Pelicans get around...

We spent hours at the Museum. An example of one of the bikes on display. They had tractors of every size and shape, motor bikes, vintage cars, sewing machines, hand made spanners. Apparently they've thrown nothing away since the family arrived. 

The Lily (Dutch Windmill)

We continued along to Bardon to check out the working Dutch windmill in the area. This used to be a working flour mill built by a dutch couple who have since retired. The windmill is still a landmark.

Hom-de-hom-de-hom.....!!

Stirling Ranges

We decided to escape the wet weather and so we headed north into the Stirling Ranges. A bush camp was mentioned to us at the base of three of the peaks. It was called Mt Trio bush camp and caravan park.  A cocky had fenced off part of his wheat farm and we overnighted there with about twenty others.  We awoke to the sun shining so off we set to climb the Bluff Knoll, one of the twenty five most popular walks in Australia.

Our instructions from the station owner was turn left, park and walk three kilometers straight up, (height 1027m).  We gained 1000m in 2k's!  It took us 4 hours.

Bluff Knoll looking back along range....we made it... yeah!!!!

I'm sure the track does not go to the right....

Denmark

Someone suggested we stay at the ocean beach caravan park, so we did. A very nice place. We booked in for 1 night and stayed for 3. The weather went from 25deg max to 15deg max. We had very light hail one evening and the diesel heater was on whenever we were home.

We met a group of people from Bunbury who were cyclists, and as luck would have it were also friends / played bridge with some friends of ours (Jock and Margie) also from Bunbury. We had a ride with them, went to lunch, to the Lakehouse for coffee, and sundowners. A great bunch of people. We shared many stories and could have stayed another week without going over old ground.

I caught a good sized whiting in the inlet. The water level in the inlet was reaching it's maximum when the enviro's will reopen the sandbar. When the bar is open the schnapper (which have been trapped in the inlet for a year or so) start to run. It becomes a bit like tailor season on Fraser Island when that happens.

The walks along the beaches from Denmark heading west to Walpole and east to Cosy corner and Albany are just magic. Had the weather been better we would have been out there much more

It was Rose's birthday on the 13th. We were up early and walking, then out for dinner. We left our car by the beach in the afternoon and walked out to waterfall beach and back. When we returned someone had placed some flowers with a note on the windscreen. The note said "Happy Birthday Rosey" Well done Janice/Vicki......

On the heritage trail with some of the Bunbury crowd. The trail runs for about 70k.

View from the lookout looking back towards where we were staying at the inlet.

Walpole

A funny little place on the coast. From the main road as you drive through it's hard to tell how close to the coast it is, but turn right and drive 200m and you're on top of a large protected inlet.

Both the walking and cycling tracks pass through Walpole so we were in our element.

The bike trails are very well looked after. This one ran along side the Frankland River. We're about 20k out when this was taken.

The Caravan Park at Coal Mine Beach (next to Walpole). A nice place and being renovated. They actually run cable TV to your site

Mother and Joey. (The head belongs to the Joey).

Shannons

Shannon's Campground is along the road from Pemberton to Walpole. It's in the Shannon State Forest on the site of the past town of Shannon (an old logging town). They are going to redevelop it and are spending millions.

There are some great walks.

The log bridge on our way around a 5k loop. The bush is indicative of the surrounds including the campground.

Pemberton (Big Brook Arboretum)

You know, you don't need to look too far to find some great places visit and to park a caravan for a few nights. The National Parks in WA are generally cheap and very accessible. When travelling outside of peak holiday periods they are more so. We've stayed at some very nice and reasonably priced places. Security is not a really big issue, but we've never left our van alone in any out of the way places. We have left the van and gone walking or cycling, etc but only when there are one or two more vans around and we've met the other campers.

We found such a place about 6k from Pemberton called Big Brook Arboretum. In the trees, next to a dam about 2k off the road, fire pits, long drop dunny's, etc. We went in for one day, and stayed for two. $10/night/person, (or $6:60 concessional) compared to $35/night closer to town.

We were either out walking on the Bibilman or cycling on the Munda Biddi tracks over the 2 days. Pemberton have the whole side of a hill devoted to MTB's so we had a little play around the easier sections.

I was in  Pemberton years ago and found sections of some old rail tracks that would allow you to toboggan down the side of a hill and shoot out across the river. We used to spend most of the day using this. It's now considered too dangerous and has been partially dismantled.

 The view from the top of the Gloscester Tree... 54m up. You climb the tree to an old fire spotting platform using steel spikes that have been hammered spiraly into the trunk. I climbed it 45yrs ago and didn't get the same buzz when I climbed it last week. White knuckled more likely.  

Track clearing here takes on a new meaning. Trees like these are commonplace.

Some people bring their pets. Some pets need more care than others.

One the road out.

Albany

The word had gotten around within the caravan fraternity that Albany would be pretty full over the weekend. It was unfortunate really because party due to this "mis-information" numbers were down. Having said that, the park owners and other providors really decided the capitalise. Hence, a site in a van park at Middleton Beach would set you back no less than $100/night, yet free camping (not well advertised) was available less than 10k from the city centre. $20 price tags on hamburgers, etc were not uncommon. I payed $22 for mine.. but they were local sardines. On the other hand, all the events on over the weekend were free. These events included concerts, parades, light shows, the sailpast, etc. All were great fun and very well managed. They really showcased Albany as a booming community, and the general vibe from those who attended was really upbeat...

 Middleton Beach

Images projected around town using the buildings as the screens were amazing.

The crowds down "York" street after the march past. 

We got talking to a little old lady in the crowd during the march past to discover that the "older" lady next to her was her mother, who's husband had been in the first march past 100 years ago. Well, she managed to find her way to the front (with a little assistance) pretty quickly. She was a very happy lady.

Rose and I did a mammoth 16k walk to "Bald Head". One of our many training walks in preparation for the Tasmania leg of our journey in February. It took us 5 hours and we we absolutely exhausted by the end of it. We managed to get to the very end of the path. The final 500 were the hardest with about 200m being a steep almost vertical drop. The slide down was OK, but the trip back up took us more than an hour. 

On top of the first hill about 300m from the start of the walk.

At the bottom of the first hill Any opportunity for a break. The photo excuse seemed to work best.

Looking back (north) towards Albany about 4k into the walk. A really great harbour.

We had an oil leak in the power steering fixed in Albany by VW. They did it under warranty. It took us 2 visits for them to get it right. We didn't mind as we were staying a few k's up a dirt road and the car came back spotless, and they'd vacuumed what they could reach on the inside too Needless to say, when the car went in the second time I'd taken out all the gear we were carrying inside the car, and they cleaned it inside and out once again I'd definitely go back, if only for the car wash...

We're off back to Pemberton via Mt Barker in the next day or so. Then we'll make our way back along the south west coast once more a little slower this time.

Narricup

Danny and Marg own a small (120hectare) property at Narricup, about 30k north of Albany, and 8k south of the Porongerups. We pulled the van up next to a small "donga" and it became the base for our Albany ANZAC weekend. Snakes frequent the place and one had taken a liking to the donga and set up residence around it somewhere, so we walked everywhere very carefully.

The view from our shady camp with the Porongerups in the background.

 Looking out from "The Gap" towards the "Natural Bridge" and beyond. We are south of Albany.

The "Munda Biddi" bike trail runs to Albany. Rose and I rode about 56k of it heading west from Albany to Torbay. This part of the trail follows an old rail line and some back roads. A really nice ride and a brilliant day weather wise. We stopped at the Ellaker Tavern (a mud brick and timber place) on the way back for lunch.

The view from "Castle Rock" in the Porongerups looking south. After the 2k walk and a 65m climb.

Wouldn't want to be doing this when you're 60... perhaps!

Walpole

From Pemberton we headed for Walpole. There's not much in the way of traffic on these roads. I think the loggers must go on holidays during the "caravan" season. The truckers call caravans "wobblies", and you will know why when you see some of the setups.

Walpole is a deceiving place. From the main town you would think it's just a general store, garage... the usual, but head south down any street in town and you realise that it's right on a beautiful inlet. Rose remarked that it's gods country... and it really is just amazing.

From Walpole we headed to Denmark (..in Australia!) and on the way stopped at the "Valley of the Giants". Huge Tingle Trees. Well worth the stop. Most everything in WA has some $$$ attached. Park entry fees are about $12/day or $75/annum, plus other entry or camping fees if applicable. Some of the parks are worth the fees.

 The walkway is awesome.

There's a lot of sawn value in these I'd reckon.

Brockman Sawpit

JB have arranged for us to have 3 new tyres fitted to the van on Tuesday. We had a wheel alignment completed in Perth and the tyres being fitted was the last stage in the remedy to a problem we've had for some time.

We got away from Margaret River about 9am I'd suppose and the van is travelling better now than it has ever been.

We have been invited to stay with some friends we knew some 17 years ago. We all belonged to the same Ski club. Danny and Marg now live in Narricup, about 30 minutes north of Albany. Albany is celebrating 100 years since the first Australia's troop ships left for the war so need to be in Albany by the weekend to join in. The fact that their daughters both are working at the "Limeburners" tent might also be adding to the excitement Limeburners is the name of the local distillery.

We stopped overnight just south and east of Pemberton at a historical site (Brockman's Sawpit). It's not listed on the camping guides as an overnighter, but it's far enough off the road, and we'd arrived late, so we'll stop anyway.

Being able to run up these dirt roads occasionally with our own water, power, etc is "Just Brilliant".

Note the saw. The guy underneath used to wear a sugar bag over his head.